| Here are some more basic facts that I collected from Frank De
Lizza's visit with me and through a course of correspondences via email with
him: FACT: Juliana was only manufactured for approximately 2 years.
FACT: ONLY about 2000
pieces of Juliana vintage costume jewelry were ever made under that
name. The first year the items were hang tagged was in 1967.
FACT: Harold Elster died in 1963. William De Lizza was the
main designer of D&E's open line (not to be confused with Juliana) and there were other design apprentices on
staff.
FACT: The Juliana jewelry company was in production from 1967-1968,
a
new company, named "Juliana", separate from D&E
with a showroom on Fifth
Avenue, in NYC.
FACT: Five links were the
norm (for D&E open line jewelry), but more or less were used
depending on what was available from Universal Chain, a company in
NJ. D&E sometimes made changes to the rollers between
the links.
FACT: Five Link bracelets
were not the only style that D&E made. Flat welded settings
with rhinestone chain (often seen in Weiss bracelets) were also common.
FACT: Toggle clasps were
sometimes used, which explains the appearances of these bracelets as well.
(See an exception below)
FACT: Flower, leaf findings, filigree balls,
were also typically used.
FACT: D&E changed the size proportions as
fashion dictated, with colors following trends.
FACT: There were no
particular pin mechanisms used; they alternated between 2 part and 3 part
(trade terms) but Frank
has also stated that they used the V-shape and bar-shape pin mechanisms
with their lower end jewelry.
FACT: The five-link bracelets and their
accompanying pieces (the more expensive pieces) would have the plated in
pin mechanisms, not the V-shape or bar-shape.
FACT:
Frank De Lizza speaks fluent Yiddish!
Another FACT! :)
FACT: Add to the list of
companies that D&E manufactured jewelry for: CORO.
"William DeLizza had great designs with modulation and sweeping feathers
and curves done in double deckers. Coro was one of the customers
(along with Garne, Kramer and Weiss) that wanted this line" -VFCJ
newsletter. I spoke to Lucille Tempesta and she confirmed that Coro
was indeed one of the name brands that D&E made jewelry for.
While the exact dates are not confirmed yet, I believe that
the jewelry made for Coro may have been between circa 1949-1950s.
FACT: D&E shared a floor at the Cable Building in NYC with "The
Black Diamond King", Mr. Franks.. who was the wholesaler
for Weiss jewelry, until they moved to their own building in Brooklyn in
the 1950s. This information was confirmed by Lucille Tempesta after I read about
Mr. Franks in the VFCJ "Juliana" article.
FACT: Also according to
the VFCJ article, the crystal aurora borealis drops with beads on
top was a popular line developed in 1953. This was also
the year that D&E had a problem matching German stones with Austrians, the
first stones they used. This miss-match of colors turned into
the magnificent combination of color that is the most sought after of all
D&E open line jewelry... formerly known as "Juliana".
FACT: This lovely French Jet brooch (below)) with the leafy frond,
was not made by D&E. This leaf finding was not used by
D&E. However as my studies progressed I found that this leaf finding
was common in Schiaparelli jewelry. (see discussion of Schiaparelli connection
below).
 
Here are surprises that Frank identified as
Juliana (below):
 
 
Wow! This set just verified by Frank DeLizza! This is a
D&E!
Thanks Sandra for this luscious contribution with the
rolled mesh chain.. brooch
also ID'd by Frank.
Sandra Miller's Author Site --
Fiction Writing Tips -- Poetry Websites -- American Female Author Authors
Biography Mystery Book Authors Suspense Novel Writer Fantasy Fiction
I wondered if there was any connection to the haute couture
jewelry of the 40s-50s and D&E's line. I
asked Mr. DeLizza if D&E had any association with Schiaparelli and he
stated that he does not recall any connection.
While this may be speculative, I have seen a signed
Schiaparelli bracelet with the same construction as the "Juliana" and hope to
find one once again . I have also seen Schiaparelli bracelets with the
same outside appearance as the D&E colorful art glass designs, but with a bar
link rhinestone chain construction (for lack of a better description), as shown
below..
 
Here below, thanks to dealer Lee Caplan,
Faux Jewels at Ruby Lane
is a Schiaparelli demi-parure that is of great interest to D&E/Juliana
collectors. While only the earrings are signed, some suggest that
perhaps the earring clips could have been changed. I strongly don't
believe this is so. Somehow this link design was initiated by
someone (maybe William DeLizza), yet not
patented.
   
   
Lee's description: "Gold toned base with prong set Peridot and emerald green
rhinestones. The light green vine like designs overlaps the dark green links. In
excellent condition. Clip on earrings are signed Schiaparelli in script,
bracelet is unsigned. Circa 1950. Bracelet is 7 ¼” by 1”. Earrings are 1” by
¾”."
I have felt for the longest time that Schiaparelli jewelry was
the inspiration for the 50s DeLizza & Elster designs we have come to call
"Juliana". Ginger Moro, in her book "European
Designer Jewelry" wrote extensively about Schiaparelli and I found a
particular reference to "Roger Jean-Pierre, who executed designs for
Schiaparelli" and "who was also technical advisor to Dior (until his death) and
Manfred Swarovski. Roger Jean-Pierre helped with the launching of
Aurora Borealis and black irise' (iridescent stones)"_page 58, European
Designer Jewelry. How interesting that the
use of "black diamonds" was popular with Weiss jewelry in the 1950s, which was
made by DeLizza & Elster.
Ginger Moro also points out in her book
that. "Roger Jean-Pierre was also advisor to Coro in New York for five years
when Vendome' was a subsidiary." Again we have another connection,
as D&E was making jewelry for Coro, and of course we cannot discount the use of
crystal beads and Aurora Borealis Swarovski rivoli stones as part of the D&E
designs which were also quite commonly found in Vendome' designs. D&E
introduced the AB crystal drops into their designs in 1953.
"Schiaparelli, in 1949 licensed an American company to manufacture her jewelry,
stamped with the script "Schiaparelli" oval or paper-tagged "Designed in Paris,
Created in America" with the style no. and price."_page 85, European
Designer Jewelry. "Spectacular bracelets 2" wide
were made out of different shaped large unfoiled glass and Swarovski "Aurora
Borealis" stones, with necklaces, brooches (3" wide) and earrings to match.
Textured "moon rocks" and iridescent stones figured in other designs."_page
86, European Designer Jewelry.
Of course my belief that the inspiration for
D&E 50s jewelry from Schiaparelli or any of the other haute couture houses in
the late 40s-50s is just speculation but I can not help but wonder
if the American company perhaps was D&E at least for a short time. There
is also a little bit in Ginger Moro's book about how Saks Fifth Avenue was
carrying Roger Jean-Pierre's haute couture designs which were so popular Saks
commissioned a manufacturer to create similar unsigned designs for a fraction of
the cost of the high designer prices. I asked Frank if he knew
anything about this and he said he was not privy to who his wholesalers were
selling to so he does not know.
Regardless, the haute couture of
European designers in the late 40s and 50s had a tremendous influence on the
styles of American Costume Jewelry.
Eureka, Susan has it! (see below) If you ever wanted to find a
needle in a haystack or the anomaly to every rule, or just need to find
interesting "stuff", seek out Susan at
Eureka, I Found
It! Featured Vintage Costume Jewelry. Here is a :"Juliana style"
bracelet that is most unusual. Susan showed this one to Frank
DeLizza and he confirmed that it is neither Juliana nor a D&E, but look at the
five link construction! Will wonders ever cease? As you can
see five links alone is not what makes a D&E. By the way,
Frank has said that toggle clasps have been used by D&E.
 
Susan's description on the above bracelet: "Chunky,
black & white, hexagonal stones create a striking look in this Juliana style
necklace and bracelet set"..
Further, the discovery of a Celebrity bracelet with the same look and
construction was presented by dealer Jan Gaughan,
Eclectic Vintage Costume Jewelry &
Collectibles (Please see photos of her Celebrity bracelet below)
. D&E manufactured Celebrity. Further research
showed that there was a whole line of Celebrity jewelry that was .. for lack of
a better way to describe it, identically "Juliana".
   
Celebrity Parure hostess set, from
Sandra Miller.
Celebrity
cameo earrings courtesy of Sheree of
Family Jools 2 (see Gallery of Hang-tagged Juliana for Juliana
matching pieces to these Celebrity earrings.)
   Unsigned Cameo brooch purchased from
Charlene Gould
eBay.com Seller List: antique-treasures
This cameo also has been found similarly noted as Celebrity
and as part of some Juliana. Notice the recurring filigree scroll
work. See Juliana tagged brooch in Juliana Tagged Gallery below for
more of this filigree. Signed Celebrity Earrings Below
Contributed by Patty
eBay.com Seller List: curious-finds
 
My latest find, mystery upon mystery! This is
what appears to be a D&E Juliana style PICTURE FRAME PIN!! Purchased from
great seller, Karen Bird,
eBay.com Seller List: caybeth To read more about
this fabulous find and my new research project, click here:
Picture Frame Brooches
This set has been forwarded to Frank DeLizza and has been
verified as a definite D&E. This set is a luscious array of
"hyacinth" navettes and bold
bright wonderful AB chatons. It is one of the few D&E brooches I've
seen with a one piece bar pin back used.
While this "picture frame brooch" is definitely a D&E,
Mr. DeLizza has notified me that his company had nothing to do with the
figural scene picture frame pins that are so much fun to collect.
A Question to be asked Mr. DeLizza will be: Did D&E also manufacture
Judy Lee Jewelry? I
do not have all the photo evidence together yet but here is
a sample from Janet Lawwill's site,
AZillion SPARKLZ VINTAGE
COSTUME JEWELRY -p.58 Collectible & Fun. She gave me
permission to use this photo of a rather mundane use of the same "Easter Egg"
stippled painted cab stones that are famously known in the Warman's
Tara/Gloria set.
 Janet's descriptive comments in regards to the set above, "Interesting
paint spatter art glass cabochons set in scallop bowl of Florentine finish gold
tone. I've never seen this art glass in anything but Juliana jewelry, however,
this is clearly marked Judy Lee. The pendant & earrings are both marked
Judy Lee. " See these similar cabochons in the "Gloria" set
below.
NOTE: This is the set that appears in
Christie Romero's Warman's, page 209. (See bottom reference).
This Gloria grand parure and Gloria
hangtag photo was submitted by Jane Clarke,
Morning Glory Antiques &
Jewelry Also check out
JEWEL CHAT
at Morning Glory Juliana Jewelry. The Tara hang tag, left,
is also courtesy of Jane Clarke. Jane's description:
GLORIA
Juliana style necklace and earrings with "Gloria" tag, but I have had them
with Juliana and Tara tags, too. Necklace 14-1/2", round brooch 2-1/2",
oval brooch 2-1/4" by 2", round earrings on card 1-1/3", oval earrings
1-1/4".
View
JULIANA
grand parure.
NOTE: From Jan Gaughan: "Frank verified that
the set was indeed made by D&E and that this set was NOT from D&E's "Juliana tagged" line even though
one has been found with the "Juliana tag" on it as Jane mentions. Someone
else (not D&E) put the "Juliana tag" on that orange stippled set.
"
 
These are gorgeous vintage 1960s
Juliana Style dark emerald green and royal blue rhinestone clip earrings on
their original card. The card reads "Selections by Sylvia". The original metal
price tag of $4.99 is attached to one earring. The earrings measure 1and
3/8 inches in height and .75 inches in width. Thank you to
eBay.com Seller List: ipswichantiques for use of this photo.
Sylvia??? Looks like a CLOSE friend of Gloria, Tara, and
Juliana :) Of course, they're all CELEBRITIES TOO!
This
set is a JULIANA style pin & earrings. The emerald green rhinestones
accent and pick up the green in the central stones. The pin also has a
hook so it can be used as a pendant, and it measures 2" by 1 1/2". The
earrings measure 1" by about 3/4". The condition is very good. The pin is
signed Lorraine Marsell with a copyright symbol. The earrings are
unsigned. Thank you to Shirlee, sparkleplenty on eBay, a VFCJ
member. Shirlee promised a photo of the Lorraine Marsell signature
on this set. Note the use of the "Easter Egg" stones. I
will be checking with Frank DeLizza to find out if D&E made this set for
the design signature.
eBay.com Seller List: sparkleplenty (photo of back with
signature coming soon).
FACT: from Erik of
The Lush Life, "My
friend's name is Leslie Hanzlick. She had a jewelry line called "Facets
by Spectrum" which incorporated vintage beads and components into "new"
pieces. She used to go to NY every month to order pieces and told me that
she used to sit down with Frank and pick out color combinations. She also
did design many pieces herself and had Frank make them.
More tagged items were showing up, and someone commented
on the immaculate condition of most of these items. I asked Frank
about this, and he confirmed for me again, that the first hang tags on
Juliana were used in the year 1967. The condition is reflective on
the fact that the items were well-made with substantial materials used.
The stones were imported from Austria. The tagged Juliana items are
not as old.
Some of the components of the Juliana tagged line have been
black glass cameo stones with plastic cameo faces glued onto the glass.
Garish turquoise blue stone studded cuff bracelets with faux blue jade,
glass cameos, paint transfer cabs were used as well.. Scrolled filigree
adornments and dangles of bright skinny navettes, and the use of paint
transfer cabochons. A good example of this style is pictured below.
This is true JULIANA, a low end conglomeration of components, and
not what D&E truly represents. As Frank said: ...
the company, Juliana, and the line, was a failure". Yet,
as evidenced in the hang-tag gallery, there remained many pieces of Juliana that
are identically stunning arrays of glitz identical to the stock D&E.
So we have to accept a little of both, in defining "JULIANA".
There
is no way to document all the styles of JULIANA, since JULIANA (the company)
tried many different styles to find one that would succeed - [Just as
there is no way to circa date D&E open line (other than from Frank's design
sketches), or to count the number of styles] - During this time
(1967-1968), while only 2000 pieces of Juliana were being made, D&E
enjoyed a very successful era of making jewelry and belts for Kenneth J. Lane,
and fabulous jewelry lines for others. As Frank told me,
he was "more Kenny than Kenny". And I'll
buy that! :)
Click on the photo to view this prime example of a D&E manufactured KJL
necklace. This photo was donated to the Juliana Facts site by Elaine
K. of http://www.antiquingonline.com/
Antiquing On Line. Notice the tell tale signs of D&E's
work in this magnificent piece: the curly-q filigree, the crystal beaded
dangles. Thank you Elaine! Here is her item description
on this piece:
NEWEST TAGGED D&E FIND!!
ELEGANT! 8/12/04
Cruising around on the Internet I found this
bracelet sitting on another vintage costume jewelry dealer's website. I
asked around because I could not make contact through email and I was directed
to the owner of the site, whose name coincidentally is Tara! :)
Tara, of Mia's Antique Jewelry & Collectibles,
http://www.miasvictorianajewelry.com
was nice enough to take more photos of her very
"Elegant" bracelet (and I do mean "Elegant" because that is what the name on the
tag attached to it reads. This is yet another tagged D&E creation,
so move over Juliana, Tara, Gloria.. you have a new sister to share
the DeLizza and Elster spotlight with! Thank you Tara for the fantastic
photos of your very beautiful Elegant bracelet.
 
 
D&E Made Parklane!
FACT: The DeLizza and
Elster factory was sold in 1990.
While Frank was here we discussed his upcoming book.
He still has his black and white sketches of the jewelry that they made.
Joan, his wife, told me she had "....grabbed as much of the jewelry as she
could before they closed up, ... Had she only known that it would be such
a collectible, she would have saved more."
Enjoy the Gallery of Hang Tagged Juliana jewelry. If you have any to
contribute please contact me at
mailto:sales@junkyardjeweler.com Enjoy!
JULIANA FACTS PAGE ONE
JULIANA
HANG-TAGGED GALLERY
JULIANA JEWELRY FOR SALE AT THE
JUNKYARD JEWELER
JEWELRY BY DELIZZA -
New Rhinestone Jewelry from Vintage Designs by D&E
The one thing we must crucially accept when defining
JULIANA is that the beautiful glitz is for the most part, NOT JULIANA!
I will be updating this site with further information from
research on Juliana jewelry, and other signature jewelry that was made by D&E.
If anyone has tagged Juliana jewelry that you'd like to share, or Juliana style
jewelry attributed or signed by other signatures, please
contact me.
Additional resources can be found in these books and
websites:
Ettinger, POPULAR JEWELRY, 2nd Edition, page 113 - bracelet
and earring set with carded earrings in shades of blue and green.
Miller, Official Price Guide To Costume Jewelry, 3rd Edition,
page 201 - circa 1950s bracelets.
Romero, Warman's Jewelry, 3rd Edition, pages 200, 202, 209 -
(page 200) - text reference to "recent collector attention given to circa late
'50s to early '60s style called "Juliana", the paper hang-tags, "Gloria"
or "Tara" of similar construction. (page 202) - c.1955-60 unmarked
"Juliana" style bracelets. (page 209) - "Gloria" full suite with
marbled glass cabs - this is the famous "Easter egg" set.
PAST PERFECTION
VINTAGE COSTUME JEWELRY - Cheryl Killmer's famous D&E collection.
Special mention to Dinah Hoyt Taylor, great friend and the
keeper of my commas..
Capricious Crowns and
Jewels at Ruby Lane
|
