Vintage Costume Jewelry ~ Junkyard Jeweler

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Juliana (D&E) Facts As Updated

Scroll down to see the latest information discovered about D&E!

New TAGGED Item found called "Elegant"

A Mystery Unfolds.....

Here are some more basic facts that I collected from Frank De Lizza's visit with me and through a course of correspondences via email with him:

FACT:  Juliana was only manufactured for approximately 2 years.

FACT:  ONLY about 2000 pieces of Juliana vintage costume jewelry  were ever made under that name.  The first year the items were hang tagged was in 1967.

FACT:  Harold Elster died in 1963.  William De Lizza was the main designer of D&E's open line (not to be confused with Juliana)  and there were other design apprentices on staff.

FACT:  The Juliana jewelry company was in production from 1967-1968,  a new company, named "Juliana", separate from D&E with a showroom on Fifth Avenue, in NYC.

FACT:  Five links were the norm (for D&E open line jewelry),  but more or less were used depending on what was available from Universal Chain,  a company in NJ.    D&E sometimes made changes to the rollers between the links.

FACT:  Five Link bracelets were not the only style that D&E made.   Flat welded settings with rhinestone chain (often seen in Weiss bracelets) were also common.  

FACT:  Toggle clasps were sometimes used, which explains the appearances of these bracelets as well. (See an exception below)

FACT:  Flower, leaf findings, filigree balls, were also typically used.

FACT:  D&E changed the size proportions as fashion dictated, with colors following trends.  

FACT:  There were no particular pin mechanisms used; they alternated between 2 part and 3 part (trade terms) but  Frank has also stated that they used the V-shape and bar-shape pin mechanisms  with their lower end jewelry.

FACT:  The five-link bracelets and their accompanying pieces (the more expensive pieces) would have the plated in pin mechanisms,  not the V-shape or bar-shape. 

FACT:  Frank De Lizza speaks fluent Yiddish!    Another FACT! :)

FACT:  Add to the list of companies that D&E manufactured jewelry for:   CORO.   "William DeLizza had great designs with modulation and sweeping feathers and curves done in double deckers.  Coro was one of the customers (along with Garne, Kramer and Weiss) that wanted this line" -VFCJ newsletter.  I spoke to Lucille Tempesta and she confirmed that Coro was indeed one of the name brands that D&E made jewelry for.   While the exact dates are not confirmed yet,   I believe that the jewelry made for Coro may have been between circa 1949-1950s.  

FACT:  D&E shared a floor at the Cable Building in NYC with "The Black Diamond King",   Mr. Franks..   who was the wholesaler for Weiss jewelry,  until they moved to their own building in Brooklyn in the 1950s. This information was confirmed by Lucille Tempesta after I read about Mr. Franks in the VFCJ  "Juliana" article. 

FACT:  Also according to the VFCJ article,  the crystal aurora borealis drops with beads on top was a popular line developed in 1953.    This was also the year that D&E had a problem matching German stones with Austrians, the first stones they used.   This miss-match of colors turned into the magnificent combination of color that is the most sought after of all D&E open line jewelry... formerly known as "Juliana".

FACT:  This lovely French Jet brooch (below)) with the leafy frond,  was not made by D&E.   This leaf finding was not used by D&E.  However as my studies progressed I found that this leaf finding was common in Schiaparelli jewelry. (see discussion of Schiaparelli connection below).

Here are surprises that Frank  identified as Juliana (below):

vintage costume jewelry rhinestone brooch identified by Frank DeLizza

 

 

 

Wow! This set just verified by Frank DeLizza! This is a D&E!  Thanks Sandra for this luscious contribution with the rolled mesh chain.. brooch also ID'd by Frank. Sandra Miller's Author Site -- Fiction Writing Tips -- Poetry Websites -- American Female Author Authors Biography Mystery Book Authors Suspense Novel Writer Fantasy Fiction

I wondered if there was any connection to the haute couture jewelry of the 40s-50s and D&E's line.       I asked Mr. DeLizza if D&E had any association  with Schiaparelli and he stated that he does not recall any connection.  

While this may be speculative, I have seen a signed Schiaparelli bracelet with the same construction as the "Juliana" and hope to find one once again .  I have also seen Schiaparelli bracelets with the same outside appearance as the D&E colorful art glass designs, but with a bar link rhinestone chain construction (for lack of a better description), as shown below..

vintage costume jewelry schiaparelli signature on braceletvintage schiaparelli costume jewelry bracelet

Here below,  thanks to dealer Lee Caplan, Faux Jewels at Ruby Lane is a Schiaparelli demi-parure that is of great interest to D&E/Juliana collectors.  While only the earrings are signed, some  suggest that perhaps the earring clips could have been changed.  I strongly don't believe this is so.   Somehow this link design was initiated by someone (maybe William DeLizza), yet not patented.

schiaparelli five link bracelet looks like Juliana

Lee's description: "Gold toned base with prong set Peridot and emerald green rhinestones. The light green vine like designs overlaps the dark green links. In excellent condition. Clip on earrings are signed Schiaparelli in script, bracelet is unsigned. Circa 1950. Bracelet is 7 ¼” by 1”. Earrings are 1” by ¾”."

I have felt for the longest time that Schiaparelli jewelry was the inspiration for the 50s DeLizza & Elster designs we have come to call "Juliana".    Ginger Moro, in her book "European Designer Jewelry" wrote extensively about Schiaparelli and I found a particular reference to "Roger Jean-Pierre, who executed designs for Schiaparelli" and "who was also technical advisor to Dior (until his death) and Manfred Swarovski.   Roger Jean-Pierre helped with the launching of Aurora Borealis and black irise' (iridescent stones)"_page 58, European Designer Jewelry.   How interesting that the use of "black diamonds" was popular with Weiss jewelry in the 1950s, which was made by DeLizza & Elster. 

Ginger Moro also points out in her book that. "Roger Jean-Pierre was also advisor to Coro in New York for five years when Vendome' was a subsidiary."  Again we have another connection,  as D&E was making jewelry for Coro, and of course we cannot discount the use of crystal beads and Aurora Borealis Swarovski rivoli stones as part of the D&E designs which were also quite commonly found in Vendome' designs.  D&E introduced the AB crystal drops into their designs in 1953.   "Schiaparelli, in 1949 licensed an American company to manufacture her jewelry, stamped with the script "Schiaparelli" oval or paper-tagged "Designed in Paris, Created in America" with the style no. and price."_page 85, European Designer Jewelry.   "Spectacular bracelets 2" wide were made out of different shaped large unfoiled glass and Swarovski "Aurora Borealis" stones, with necklaces, brooches (3" wide) and earrings to match.  Textured "moon rocks" and iridescent stones figured in other designs."_page 86, European Designer Jewelry.   

Of course my belief that the inspiration for D&E 50s jewelry from Schiaparelli or any of the other haute couture houses in the late 40s-50s is just speculation but I can not help but wonder if the American company perhaps was D&E at least for a short time.  There is also a little bit in Ginger Moro's book about how Saks Fifth Avenue was carrying Roger Jean-Pierre's haute couture designs which were so popular Saks commissioned a manufacturer to create similar unsigned designs for a fraction of the cost of the high designer prices.   I asked Frank if he knew anything about this and he said he was not privy to who his wholesalers were selling to so he does not know.

Regardless,  the haute couture of European designers in the late 40s and 50s had a tremendous influence on the styles of American Costume Jewelry.

Eureka,  Susan has it!  (see below)  If you ever wanted to find a needle in a haystack or the anomaly to every rule, or just need to find interesting "stuff",  seek out Susan at Eureka, I Found It! Featured Vintage Costume Jewelry.   Here is a :"Juliana style" bracelet that is most unusual.   Susan showed this one to Frank DeLizza and he confirmed that it is neither Juliana nor a D&E, but look at the five link construction!  Will wonders ever cease?   As you can see five links alone is not what makes a D&E.   By the way,  Frank has said that toggle clasps have been used by D&E.

juliana style five link toggle bracelet

Susan's description on the above bracelet: "Chunky, black & white, hexagonal stones create a striking look in this Juliana style necklace and bracelet set"..

Further, the discovery of a Celebrity bracelet with the same look and construction was  presented by dealer Jan Gaughan, Eclectic Vintage Costume Jewelry & Collectibles  (Please see photos of her Celebrity bracelet below) .     D&E manufactured Celebrity.  Further research showed that there was a whole line of Celebrity jewelry that was .. for lack of a better way to describe it,  identically "Juliana". 

celebrity juliana style bracelet

juliana style vintage rhinestone celebrity set

Celebrity Parure hostess set, from Sandra Miller.

celebrity juliana style earrings

 Celebrity cameo earrings courtesy of Sheree of Family Jools 2 (see Gallery of Hang-tagged Juliana for Juliana matching pieces to these Celebrity earrings.)

juliana style cameo broochcelebrity juliana style earrings

Unsigned Cameo brooch purchased from Charlene Gould eBay.com Seller List: antique-treasures  This cameo also has been found similarly noted as Celebrity and as part of some Juliana.  Notice the recurring filigree scroll work.  See Juliana tagged brooch in Juliana Tagged Gallery below for more of this filigree.

Signed Celebrity Earrings Below Contributed by Patty eBay.com Seller List: curious-finds

 

D&E vintage costume juliana picture frame pin identified by Frank DeLizza

My latest find, mystery upon mystery!  This is what appears to be a D&E Juliana style PICTURE FRAME PIN!! Purchased from great seller, Karen Bird, eBay.com Seller List: caybeth    To read more about this fabulous find and my new research project, click here: Picture Frame Brooches

This set has been forwarded to Frank DeLizza  and has been verified as a definite D&E.    This set is a luscious array of "hyacinth" navettes and bold bright wonderful AB chatons.  It is one of the few D&E brooches I've seen with a one piece bar pin back used.

While this "picture frame brooch" is definitely a D&E, Mr. DeLizza has notified me that his company had nothing to do with the figural scene picture frame pins that are so much fun to collect.  

A Question to be asked Mr. DeLizza will be: Did D&E also manufacture Judy Lee Jewelry?   I do not have all the photo evidence together yet but here is a sample from Janet Lawwill's site,  AZillion SPARKLZ VINTAGE COSTUME JEWELRY -p.58 Collectible & Fun She gave me permission to use this photo of a rather mundane use of the same "Easter Egg" stippled painted cab stones that  are famously known in the Warman's Tara/Gloria set.

celebrity set with juliana style easter egg stones

Janet's descriptive comments in regards to the set above, "Interesting paint spatter art glass cabochons set in scallop bowl of Florentine finish gold tone.  I've never seen this art glass in anything but Juliana jewelry, however, this is clearly marked Judy Lee.   The pendant & earrings are both marked Judy Lee. "    See these similar cabochons in the "Gloria" set below.

famous easter egg juliana parure

NOTE:  This is the set that appears in Christie Romero's Warman's, page 209. (See bottom reference).

This Gloria grand parure and Gloria hangtag photo was submitted by Jane Clarke, Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry  Also check out JEWEL CHAT at Morning Glory Juliana Jewelry.   The Tara hang tag, left, is also courtesy of Jane Clarke.

Jane's description:

 GLORIA  Juliana style necklace and earrings with "Gloria" tag, but I have had them with Juliana and Tara tags, too. Necklace 14-1/2", round brooch 2-1/2", oval brooch 2-1/4" by 2", round earrings on card 1-1/3", oval earrings 1-1/4".  View
JULIANA
grand parure.

NOTE: From Jan Gaughan:  "Frank verified  that the set was indeed made by D&E and that this set was NOT from D&E's "Juliana tagged" line even though one has been found with the "Juliana tag" on it as Jane mentions. Someone else (not D&E) put the "Juliana tag" on that orange stippled set. "

 

tara vintage costume jewelry hang taggloria vintage costume jewelry hang tag

sylvia carded juliana style earrings

These are gorgeous vintage  1960s Juliana Style dark emerald green and royal blue rhinestone clip earrings on their original card. The card reads "Selections by Sylvia". The original metal price tag of $4.99 is attached to one earring. The earrings measure 1and 3/8 inches in height and .75 inches in width. Thank you to eBay.com Seller List: ipswichantiques for use of this photo.  Sylvia???  Looks like a CLOSE friend of Gloria, Tara, and Juliana :)   Of course, they're all CELEBRITIES TOO!

lorraine marsell easter egg juliana style signed vintage rhinestone jewelry set

This set is a JULIANA style pin & earrings. The emerald green rhinestones accent and pick up the green in the central stones. The pin also has a hook so it can be used as a pendant, and it measures 2" by 1 1/2". The earrings measure 1" by about 3/4". The condition is very good. The pin is signed Lorraine Marsell with a copyright symbol. The earrings are unsigned.  Thank you to Shirlee, sparkleplenty on eBay, a VFCJ member.  Shirlee promised a photo of the Lorraine Marsell signature on this set.   Note the use of the "Easter Egg" stones.  I will be checking with Frank DeLizza to find out if D&E made this set for the design signature.   eBay.com Seller List: sparkleplenty  (photo of back with signature coming soon).

FACT: from Erik of  The Lush Life, "My friend's name is Leslie Hanzlick.  She had a jewelry line called "Facets by Spectrum" which incorporated vintage beads and components into "new" pieces.  She used to go to NY every month to order pieces and told me that she used to sit down with Frank and pick out color combinations.  She also did design many pieces herself and had Frank make them. 

More tagged items were showing up, and someone  commented on the immaculate condition of most of these items.   I asked Frank about this, and he confirmed for me again,  that the first hang tags on Juliana were used in the year 1967.   The condition is reflective on the fact that the items were well-made with substantial materials used.   The stones were imported from Austria.   The tagged Juliana items are not as old.

Some of the components of the Juliana tagged line have been black glass cameo stones with plastic cameo faces glued onto the glass.  Garish turquoise blue stone studded cuff bracelets with faux blue jade,  glass cameos, paint transfer cabs were used as well..  Scrolled filigree adornments and dangles of bright skinny navettes,  and the use of paint transfer cabochons.  A good example of this style is pictured below.   This is true JULIANA,  a low end conglomeration of components, and not what D&E truly represents.   As Frank said: ...  the company, Juliana, and the line, was a failure".    Yet, as evidenced in the hang-tag gallery, there remained many pieces of Juliana that are identically stunning arrays of glitz identical to the stock D&E.   So we have to accept a little of both, in defining "JULIANA".  

There is no way to document all the styles of JULIANA, since JULIANA (the company) tried many different styles to find one that would succeed -  [Just as there is no way to circa date D&E open line (other than from Frank's design sketches), or to count the number of styles] -  During this time (1967-1968),  while only 2000 pieces of Juliana were being made,  D&E enjoyed a very successful era of making jewelry and belts for Kenneth J. Lane, and fabulous jewelry lines for others.    As Frank told me,  he was "more Kenny than Kenny".     And I'll buy that!     :)

Click on the photo to view this prime example of a D&E manufactured KJL necklace.   This photo was donated to the Juliana Facts site by Elaine K. of http://www.antiquingonline.com/   Antiquing On Line.    Notice the tell tale signs of D&E's work in this magnificent piece:  the curly-q filigree, the crystal beaded dangles.  Thank you Elaine!    Here is her item description on this piece:  Wonderful mid-1960's Kenneth J. Lane bib necklace with clear round rhinestones, clear faceted glass balls, simulated pearl dangles all set on a gold-tone semi-rigid openwork frame with curliques. Signed K.J.L. on applied oval plaque.

NEWEST TAGGED D&E FIND!!  ELEGANT!  8/12/04

Cruising around on the Internet I found this bracelet sitting on another vintage costume jewelry dealer's website.  I asked around because I could not make contact through email and I was directed to the owner of the site, whose name coincidentally is Tara!  :)

 

Tara, of Mia's Antique Jewelry & Collectibles, http://www.miasvictorianajewelry.com was nice enough to take more photos of her very "Elegant" bracelet (and I do mean "Elegant" because that is what the name on the tag attached to it reads.   This is yet another tagged D&E creation, so move over Juliana, Tara, Gloria..   you have a new sister to share the DeLizza and Elster spotlight with!  Thank you Tara for the fantastic photos of your very beautiful Elegant bracelet.

D&E Made Parklane!

FACT:  The DeLizza and Elster factory was sold in 1990.  

While Frank was here we discussed his upcoming book.   He still has his black and white sketches of the jewelry that they made.   Joan, his wife,  told me she had "....grabbed as much of the jewelry as she could before they closed up, ...  Had she only known that it would be such a collectible, she would have saved  more."     Enjoy the Gallery of Hang Tagged Juliana jewelry.   If you have any to contribute please contact me at mailto:sales@junkyardjeweler.com  Enjoy!

JULIANA FACTS PAGE ONE

JULIANA HANG-TAGGED GALLERY

JULIANA JEWELRY FOR SALE AT THE JUNKYARD JEWELER

JEWELRY BY DELIZZA -  New Rhinestone Jewelry from Vintage Designs by D&E

 

The one thing we must crucially accept when defining  JULIANA  is that the beautiful glitz is for the most part, NOT JULIANA!     I will be updating this site with further information from  research on Juliana jewelry, and other signature jewelry that was made by D&E.  If anyone has tagged Juliana jewelry that you'd like to share, or Juliana style jewelry attributed or signed by other signatures, please contact me.

Additional resources can be found in these books and websites:

Ettinger, POPULAR JEWELRY, 2nd Edition, page 113 - bracelet and earring set with carded earrings in shades of blue and green.

Miller, Official Price Guide To Costume Jewelry, 3rd Edition, page 201 - circa 1950s bracelets.

Romero, Warman's Jewelry, 3rd Edition, pages 200, 202, 209 -  (page 200) - text reference to "recent collector attention given to circa late '50s to early '60s style called "Juliana",  the paper hang-tags, "Gloria" or "Tara" of similar construction.  (page 202) - c.1955-60 unmarked "Juliana" style bracelets.  (page 209) -  "Gloria" full suite with marbled glass cabs - this is the famous "Easter egg" set.

PAST PERFECTION VINTAGE COSTUME JEWELRY - Cheryl Killmer's famous D&E collection.

Special mention to Dinah Hoyt Taylor, great friend and the keeper of my commas..     Capricious Crowns and Jewels at Ruby Lane

 

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